Saint Francis of Assisi is one of Christianity’s most beloved saints, and a figure of considerable contemporary relevance for his commitment to humility, nature and peace. The latter are in abundance along the pilgrimage route named after him – the Way of Saint Francis (Via di Francesco), which runs through Central Italy. This article follows in Francis’ footsteps as it recalls moments from his life at each significant stop. For those wishing to walk the route, it also shares some recommendations for what to see and
where to stay.
Before setting off, we should say a little about the saint whose life and legacy inspired this route.
Born in 1181, in Assisi, to an affluent Umbrian family, Saint Francis received a revelation from Christ that changed the course of his life and the trajectory of the Church. In his youth, Francis embraced his family’s wealth and lived a life of excess, indulgence and the pursuit of pleasure. His life was also pervaded by the violence of the times, and when Francis was a little over twenty he set out for war against the neighbouring city of Perugia. But Francis was captured at the Battle of Collestrada and spent a year languishing in a Perugian prison.
Lost and without purpose following his release from captivity, one day Francis found himself praying before the crucifix in the dilapidated church of San Damiano. As he prayed, Francis heard the voice of Christ address him from the crucifix, saying, “Francis, go and repair my house, which, as you can see, is falling into ruin.”
Francis initially interpreted Christ’s command literally, and dedicated himself towards repairing this church and Assisi’s nearby chapels. But over time he came to understand the message as a metaphor decrying the decline of the Church, and embraced a humble life of devotion to the teachings of Christ and the service of the poor.
By the time of his death in 1226, Francis had left an indelible mark on the history of the Catholic Church. His rejection of materialism challenged the Church’s corruption; his efforts at peace and reconciliation – especially in the Holy Land – challenged the political agenda that was driving the Crusades; and his profound spirituality encouraged many of his contemporaries to revive and reconsider their connection with God.
Francis’ main legacy is the
Franciscan Order which has been carrying out vital work in education, social services, and environmental stewardship for more than 800 years. But Saint Francis continues to influence the Catholic Church beyond the work of his order. The encyclical "
Laudato Si'" (Praise be to you), written by the incumbent Pope Francis in 2015, derives its title from the opening words of Francis' "Canticle of the Sun." Indeed, Pope Francis uses this encyclical to address the urgent need for environmental stewardship and care for our common home, drawing heavily on the spirituality and teachings of Saint Francis of Assisi.
In this respect, Francis' legacy extends beyond both the Church and his religious order. He is celebrated for his deep connection with nature, earning him the title of the patron saint of animals and the environment, and is most often depicted in the company of animals. His teachings on humility and the sanctity of all life also continue to inspire people worldwide.
But it is perhaps in Italy that his legacy is most immediately felt. Francis is one of the two patron saints of Italy, together with Saint Catherine of Siena, whose head is exposed in her eponymous chapel in Siena’s Basilica of Saint Domenico. Francis lies buried beneath his Basilica in Assisi, but his influence is felt all across the Central Italian peninsula, to which we now turn as we introduce his pilgrimage route.
Inspired by Saint Francis’ life and travels, the
Via di Francesco (Way of Saint Francis) runs along the spine of Central Italy from Florence in the north down to Rome in the south. The 550 km route crosses swathes of the Apennine Mountains, including Francis’ hometown of Assisi on the slopes of Monte Subasio. Parts of the pilgrimage route are easy; others are especially challenging; but the route is suitable for everyone with a moderate level of fitness.
Click
here to view the difficulty of each stage of the route.
Trekking Saint Francis’ Way is incredibly rewarding. It takes roughly a month to complete and brings you through three Italian regions (Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio). Preparation is key for any pilgrimage, and so here are our top suggestions for what to do and where to stay along the way.
Monastery accommodation in Florence
Located in the heart of Florence, Foresteria Valdese provides a serene residential retreat for pilgrims preparing to start their journey. Book your stay at Foresteria Valdese
here.
The Sanctuary of Verna – Stigmata on the Sacred Mountain
Towards the end of Saint Francis’ life, when he was weakened, short of sight, and sick, he found himself wandering on the slopes of Mount La Verna. Suddenly he saw a vision of a seraph, a six-winged angel on a cross, who gave him the gift of the five wounds of the crucified Christ. He kept these wounds hidden until his death two years later in 1226.
Today, a
sanctuary sits atop the site in La Verna where Saint Francis received these wounds. The sanctuary’s community warmly welcomes all those who climb the mountain, and especially pilgrims who come to seek a time of prayer and reflection. Visitors may join the friars in prayers and services and friars are available to offer guidance at the shrine or for individual talks. Simple accommodation for one night is available for pilgrims walking the Way of Saint Francis. The room consists of a shared dormitory with 16 beds and optional dinner and breakfast.
Monastery accommodation in La Verna
Assisi – The Spiritual Heart of Saint Francis’ Way
The Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi
As the birthplace and final resting place of the thirteenth-century saint, Assisi is the most important stop on the pilgrimage and a town full of must-see marvels.
The
Basilica is by far Assisi’s most important church and rises on the site where Saint Francis was buried in 1230. Deep beneath the basilica lies the tomb of Saint Francis, encased in a stone box bound by iron ties. The basilica itself spans two levels – the lower and upper basilicas – and is supported by grand arches that were once the quarters for its hundreds of friars.
Both the lower and the upper basilicas are adorned with frescoes by leading thirteenth-century artists.
In the Lower Basilica, frescoes by Cimabue mark a departure from the prevailing Italo-Byzantine style of the times, showcasing more natural proportions.
Giotto, considered a godfather of the Renaissance and possibly Cimabue’s student, painted the frescoes above the altars, infusing his work with personality and clear facial expressions.
Three panels in particular are worthy of attention as they symbolically depict the Franciscan vows of obedience, chastity, and poverty. In the first, Francis kneels before Lady Obedience. In the second, Lady Chastity is shown in her tower of purity. In the third, Lady Poverty stands at the centre in a patched wedding dress beside Christ, symbolising their union.
The Upper Basilica is Italy's first Gothic church and features the city’s earliest examples of stained glass through which daylight bathes the nave. Its surrounding walls show 28 scenes from Saint Francis’s life, masterfully crafted by Giotto and his students. Assisi’s main square, Piazza del Comune, is also well worth visiting. Its Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva perfectly preserves parts of an underlying Roman temple (as this modern-day piazza stands above Assisi’s Roman Forum).
Monastery accommodation in Assisi
Assisi offers plenty of
accommodation options, from humble pilgrims lodgings to more comfortable hotels. Another option is to seek out
monastery accommodation in Perugia, as this stunning hilltop city is also part of the Way of Saint Francis pilgrim route.
Greccio – The Living Nativity
This cliffside village in Rome’s region of Lazio seems like many other small Italian settlements. But Greccio is endowed with a much greater Christian history since it was here that Saint Francis created the first-ever nativity scene. In the early 1220s, Francis travelled 90 km south from Assisi to Greccio, invited by Giovanni Velita, the Lord of Greccio, to the villagers. Captivated by the area’s natural beauty, Saint Francis chose to settle there, constructing a sanctuary 1.5km from the village which was partially carved into the cliffside.
Inspired by his recent pilgrimage to the Holy Land (1219-1220), Francis wanted to bring the memory of Christ's birth closer to the people of Greccio. And so on December 24, 1223, he organised a midnight mass featuring a re-enactment of the nativity scene. Villagers played the roles of Mary and Joseph, with a rag doll as baby Jesus; Francis even brought an ox and a donkey to complete the barn setting and make the Christmas nativity scene tangible and inspiring for the villagers.
The first nativity scene was a great success and began a tradition that quickly spread around the world, earning Greccio the nickname "
Franciscan Bethlehem." Today, visitors can explore the Chapel of the Nativity Scene at the sanctuary, where an ancient mural marks the spot of the original mass, preserving the legacy of St. Francis's first nativity celebration.
Rieti – A Site of Revelation & Consolidation
